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Give Your Roots Room to Breathe
Over time your soil naturally becomes compacted, starving your lawn of the air, water, and nutrients it needs. Our core aeration service relieves that compaction and revitalizes your lawn .
What Is Core Aeration?
Core aeration creates the perfect foundation for overseeding by opening up compacted soil and giving grass seed direct contact with the ground. Many of our customers choose to handle their own seeding after we aerate, the thousands of holes we create act as perfect pockets for seed to germinate and establish.
This service is best done in fall (September through early November). Fall aeration combined with overseeding delivers the best results: ideal soil temperatures, less weed competition, and consistent moisture give new grass the strongest start possible. Whether you seed yourself or simply want the benefits of relieved compaction, fall is the optimal time for aeration.
Our mechanical core aerator pulls out finger-sized plugs 2–3 inches deep into the soil, opening up channels for air, water, and nutrients to reach your grassroots directly.
Aeration is most effective in the fall and is greatly enhanced when combined with overseeding for established lawns.
- Stimulates root growth
- Enhances water uptake
- Reduces soil compaction
- Improves oxygen content
- Enhances thatch control
- Improves fertilizer & nutrient availability
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Better Air. Better Water. Better Growth.
Air Exchange
Opens channels deep into compacted soil so oxygen can reach grassroots, giving the micro-organisms your lawn depends on the environment they need to thrive.
Water Absorption
Reduces runoff and pooling by allowing water to penetrate deeply into the root zone instead of sitting on a compacted surface, making every drop count.
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Root Development
Deeper roots mean a more drought-resistant, disease-resistant, and overall stronger lawn. Aeration is one of the single most effective things you can do for your grass.
Best When Paired With Overseeding
Aeration and overseeding work hand in hand. The plugs pulled from the soil create the perfect seedbed, maximizing germination and helping new grass establish quickly. Ask us about combining both services for maximum results.
Your lawn is in good hands from day one.
Call or request a free in-person estimate. Our experts can answer any questions you have about your lawn and our services.
We personally inspect your property and provide a customized, on-site estimate, not a guess from an online map.
Relax while we do the work. After each visit your technician leaves personalized notes so you always know what to expect.
Customer Testimonials
Have questions?
Lawns in Rhode Island and Massachusetts are comprised of mostly Kentucky blue grass, perennial rye and fescue, so your lawn should be mowed at a height of 3”.
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Mowing at 3" helps the lawn retain moisture and defend against weed infestations. Also, root depth is directly related the grass blade height – the longer the grass the deeper the roots.
How often you mow is dependant on the time of year. In the spring and fall you will be mowing more often, summer time less. You should try to mow at least once a week removing only 1/3 of the blade of grass. If you find you are removing more than 1/3, you may need to mow more often.
No, as long as you are removing only 1/3 of the grass blade you do not need to bag. If, out of necessity, you need to remove more than 1/3 you should bag as heave clippings will suffocate the lawn.
Your lawn should receive 1.5" – 2” of water per week, this includes rainfall. Generally, watering every other day or every third day for 20 – 30 minutes per section/zone should suffice. Remember, deep infrequent waterings are preferable to light frequent waterings.
In the morning, after 6am, is usually the best time to water as the sun will be coming up to dry the grass blades and there is usually less wind at this time. Watering at night is not recommended.
Always follow your local watering restrictions. If during the summer your lawn suffers from drought stress, the GreenWorks program will help it recover.
Proper mowing and watering are key to preventing disease problems. Regular mowing with a sharp blade and watering after 6am will cut down on problems dramatically. A dull lawn mower blade will shred the grass blade allowing disease spores to enter the plant. A dull blade also causes rapid dehydration of the grass. If you are watering at night the water sits on the grass blades providing the perfect environment for diseases. Pruning back trees to allow more air circulation will help as well. Sometimes due to humidity or other environmental factors, nothing will get rid of disease problems.
Our Locations
GreenWorks proudly serves communities across Rhode Island and Southeastern Massachusetts with balanced, eco-friendly lawn care treatments, fertilizers, and aeration.
